On the Road with Beth

1/14/2010 (date is approximate here – I’ve really lost most sense of time.)

Shortly after my morning walk, I was looking – and wow – dolphins everywhere. Here are my best shots:

Dolphins all around

Dolphins are fun to watch

And tails, too.

For all my friends who kayak – I now understand why. This is a perfect place to do it – and next time I see the dolphins playing like this I think I’ll rent one and go out. A couple others took their kayak out to the dolphins and they just played and played around the kayaks. I was watching them for a couple hours. Or longer – there was a loss of any sense of time.

While the dolphins are often around – they don’t play quite like this every day. What a treat!

1/11/2010

We drove past Mulege and checked out a couple beaches. Went on to one that we didn’t like, so drove back to the one we selected to stay at. It’s closer to Mulege – which we’ve both come to love – and we really like this beach. Vendors come right to your site – are very gracious when you say no or just shake your head – but often we are buying – fresh vegies, fresh shrimp or fish, fresh bread and bakery goods – to blankets and baskets, tshirts, etc. They get to know us – and know what we like. The one product man knew I wanted lettuce (which he didn’t carry) and next trip he had it. Almost immediately upon parking we saw this vendor with his pal:

Vendor with pet

And one of my favorite birds that I’ve been watching every morning make his rounds – and you’ll see more pics of, I’m sure:

He walks the beach every morning and other times, too.

At some times of day many of the various varieties of seabirds seem to have a “meet and greet”:

Let's party!

And then there was our first sunset here:

Our first Bahia Concepcion Sunset

The sun actually rises over one of the mountains (over the water) and sets over the others – givings some glorious colors in the opposing skies as well as where it’s setting. Another post will have a great sunrise and suset on another day – my favorites here so far.

Sunrise walks and the birds start arriving, too.

Sunrise looking back from the opposite side to our rigs.

The water here is a beautiful aquamarine to every shade of blue and sometimes green thrown in. But at this sunrise, the location I was at had the water reflecting the bluffs and taking on their color. So neat.

Another shot of the water during this sunrise.

No clue who he is, but he's got breakfast.

And he didn't care how close I got - as long as I left that food alone.

Jean and I have the bottom right rigs.

more birds playing on the beach

2 standing, one coming in for a landing

This is just an introduction to our stay at Bahia Concepcion. Much more to follow – including many more pics here – as well as pics of Mulege and other side trips we’ve taken and will yet take.

1/10/10

I hate too much time passing before I post – as I know I forget things I want to say.

Walking into San Ignacio

The trees in the square are gigantic. Jean found out they are laurel trees.

San Ignacio is an oasis in the middle of the desert – filled with date palms and lush green – because of the river on one side and the lagoon on the other. If we had traveled to the lagoon it is one of the places on the Baja to see the mama and baby whales. We are saving that for a trip to Guerrero Negro on the way back – but this is also a possibility.

The square in San Ignacio is one of my favorites.

Looking into the San Ignacio Square

All the Christmas decorations had not yet been taken down.

Life-size nativity in San Ignacio Square

The square is full of Laurel trees (neither of us knew what they were – but Jean found out). They have gigantic bases – as you can see from this pic of me at the bottom of one:

with a Laurel tree

On one side of the square, they have these very interesting crosses that hold the lights for nighttime:

Crosses in Square

Across from the square is the Mission:

San Ignacio Mission

Inside the Mission

The walls to the mission are about 3 feet thick – as you can see by this picture of a doorway:

Exceptionally thick walls

Inside looking towards the rear

Information on the Church

close-up picture of San Ignacio de Loyola

The bell's are still in use with the ropes you see coming down from them.

There are some beautiful flowers outside the church:

yellow flower

Pink and White

And then, there was this cute house in town:

Cute house in San Ignacio

Part of the cute Library bldg

The next is a picture of Jean at the entrance to an office between the church and the museum:

small doorway

We looked into a Cave Painting tour – but they were long and expensive and we decided after seeing the museum that we would not do one at this time. The museum had areas that looked like you were in the caves:

Cave Paintings

Cave Paintings 2

Cave Paintings 3

We also took a walk down the road to the river.

A green area on the side of the road.

the river

Aren't they cute?

Where we parked.

Just before sunset, the sky filled with soaring birds:

Soaring birds filled the sky

In Vizcaino I saw my first vermillion flycatcher – wow – so beautiful, but I was able to get a better picture here:

Vermillion flycatcher

And on the road we were again.

1/8-10/10

We drove through Guerrero Negro and stopped to go to an ATM and look for a place for Jean to find an ectrico mechanico. Didn’t find the one recommended, but did find a nice restaurant and rv park we may stop at on the return. Walked all over the main drag looking, and to the bank, so got our exercise in. Guerrero Negro is where we will go back to whale watch. People are going out now, but they are only seeing a few. It’s supposed to be much better in a month – so we don’t see a reason to stop now.

Therefore we headed on out and stopped in Vizcaino at the Hotel Kadekaman.

Hotel Kadekaman

There is no word Motel down here – so this is really what we’d consider a roadside motel. But one that is very lovingly cared for. They have 4 small rv spots behind the motel amidst their orange trees. They are working on putting in a real rv park and hope to have it open later. Meantime, we squeezed in next to each other in the trees – where they have real electric (ok, we’re plugged into 110 outlets) and they have water available. They have showers that look like bathrooms in the US. First we’ve seen of that – with real toilet paper in them. All the restrooms since I’ve been in MX you have to bring your own toilet paper. Something to get used to.

Our rigs in the orange trees

They have also decorated quite a bit using the theme of the cave paintings in the area. It’s really nice.

Cave painting on walls from inside grounds

Cave paintings on walls from inside grounds 2

Cave paintings on walls outside grounds

Some of the motel

another part of the motel

They did a nice job decorating outside on the street also, using plants and seashells like these along the sidewalk:

Plants along sidewalk out front

Most rvers just drive right through Vizcaino. It’s not a destination town. But it felt more of Mexico than many other towns to me because of that. We walked in and out of many of the stores – bought in their little grocery stores (as we have in other towns – we really enjoy it) and I purchased some Mexican hot chocolate mix. I made a cup this morning and am not sure I like it. But hey, got to try – and will drink it.

While walking through town we turned off to see a Mission:

Mission San J Diego in Vizcaino

We walked past the following interesting building – if we understood the sign on it – we believe it can be used by the locals for many different functions – I just liked the way it looked:

Vizcaino Bldg

Vizcaino Playground - notice the use of painted tires everywhere

I was able to get internet from my rig on my OLD laptop (love this old Dell, so glad it decided not to die). My new computer and Jean’s would not work from the rigs. But I must admit, it was really nice sitting out on the restaurant porch one afternoon:

Jean and me working on motel/restaurant porch.

Sunset pic taken from my site.

Oh my gosh – this is one of those places that the drive in is so spectacular – all of a sudden your jaw just drops.

Driving into Bahia de Los Angeles

We stayed for 2 nights at Daggett’s – this is the view I had immediately in front of my site on arrival:

Pelicans in front of my site

And when I say “in front of my site” I mean just feet away. They sit there hoping someone is going to come back from fishing (there’s a place right next to there to clean fish) and then leave them goodies.

a pelican yawn

View of the Sea of Cortez - looking towards the islands

Peaches making more Mexican friends

Between the town and the rv park, is a jutting of land into the sea – with a lighthouse.

Looking towards the lighthouse

Bahia de Los Angeles is not a big town, but it is quickly growing with the winter people – it’s beauty is spectacular. That said, there is nothing much to town, yet. But, similar to San Felipe, because of the tourists, they are starting to charge more for staying. However, here in Bahia de Los Angeles there are still some less expensive places. While we stayed at one of the most popular, for me it was too expensive for what it is – especially knowing what we have been paying, and what we can expect to pay at some of the most popular beach areas yet to come. However, Jean and I did look around and found 2 other places in town we’d feel comfortable at – with just as beautiful of views. So if we decide to take the detour again to this city on the return trip – we’ll stay at one of the other places.

What I did see here – were lots more birds – so here they are.

Tide's out - what a view, eh?

More scenery and birds:

Lots of people coming down to the Baja have to learn how to really boondock. Most of the cg’s do not have hookups and those that do might not work, or work poorly. Many of the people down here for the first time aren’t used to having to keep their batteries charged. 2 people had trouble at this park on our first night there with their generators. One got theirs started when they realized their battery didn’t have enough charge to do it by starting their engine (I have to do this often, as having only one battery, it doesn’t take much to not let it start my recalcitrant generator). I can’t be sure, but the other couple, a very nice couple, were in more trouble. My guess is they had run their batteries to no charge at all, and probably are out-of-luck until they buy new ones. Their fridge wouldn’t start on propane any more – they couldn’t get the generator started – but they were still happy – as they said, hey, we can eat (propane to stove was working) and we have a bed!

Here’s the 2nd couple out kayaking:

Neighbor couple out on their kayaks

Tide's out - Peaches going to sneak up on the pelicans

Getting closer

Peaches is a dot on those rocks - and the birds are in flight!

I can’t figure out why Peaches keeps thinking she’s going to catch a bird – hasn’t happened yet – but she does not give up.

Variety of birds on rocks during low tide.

Pelicans can look soooooo strange.

a favorite mirror image shot

Oystercatcher and his image

Pelicans in flight

Close to sunset

Sunset

My site

Sunset 2

Sunset 3

1/5/10

Catavina is known for it’s rocks and cactus. On the way we started seeing Boojum trees. And oh, what rocks.

Driving to Catavina

What is truly amazing is how the rocks, cactus and other plants look like someone has landscaped them. It is simply unbelievable. We overnighted and hiked around near where we stayed and even Jean was impressed – because it wasn’t like looking at just another cactus –

natural rock gardens

And some plants blooming

I like this plant.

This bird was a loudmouth.

A landscaper couldn't have done it better.

Yep, got to love Mother Nature.

Ocotillo blooming

Purple flowers above a red cactus

Date Palm

Remember that bird I posted about in AZ – a black bird with a terrible name starting with ph – well, he’s here in MX also – and I can’t spell the name without looking him up – so not going to try. One of the things I like about him – is he has white on the underside of his wings. Of course, I never had pictures to show it. This is what I normally am able to get.

That ph bird.

Well, with Jean’s help – I finally captured a poor picture showing the white:

The ph bird showing the white underside of his wings.

I’m not overly impressed with the Boojum tree – but here’s one – the Boojum is centered in front:

Boojum Tree

1/3/10

While staying at Fidel’s we took a day trip and went to a Sea Lion Sanctuary and to El Rosario.

The sea lion sanctuary was on a map Jean had, but not on mine or in any of our books. We decided to see if it was still there and check it out. It’s down a lonnnnnnnng road that rv’s would not be advised to take. Luckily we didn’t try that. And we only saw a very few young sea lions. But the views of the ocean from there were absolutely spectacular.

Looking down from the road to the Sea Lion Sanctuary

One of the few sea lions there.

The sea lions were in the waters trying to get up to these rocks.

The waves were crashing onto the rocks at the time of day we were there. And the sea lions that made it onto the rocks were washed right back off. But, again, there were only a few of them in the water even trying. Not sure where they all are, but we didn’t see any in Ensenada where they are known to hang out, either. And I’ve heard folks in California are saying theirs are not around either. Sure hope they haven’t been endangered!

As stated, the scenery along the shore here is spectacular.

Waves rushing over that flat rock.

And while we were not at La Bufadora for these shots – almost could have been – as there were lots of small “blow holes” here.

Wave crashing into rocks like a blowhole

Another big splash

After leaving here, we headed into El Rosario. My book and several people informed me that we had to eat lobster burritos at Mama Espinoza’s. Well, would I turn down lobster? I don’t think so. There were several signs with the restaurants name. I took pics of some of them but elected to show the following because it tells it’s own story:

Mama Espinoza's

Yep, this restaurant has been part of the Baja 500 from it’s first year. But the next sign is what brought me here:

Oh yeah!

Jean and I thought about it and ordered one plate to share. That’s why her platter doesn’t look as full as my regular dinner plate – I removed 1/2 the food from her platter.

our lobster burritos

I saved the sunset pics from this day to put on this post –

beautiful colors

Going, going, almost gone

The sky color reflected in the sand

What a sky!

couldn't help but share more of it

One of my favorite things about staying at Fidel’s – is that the sun both rises and sets over the water. I’m not a sunrise person – but having the best of both worlds – that I love.

12/31/09 – 1/5/10

Following are some of the bird pictures I took during this several day stay.

food for me

Long Billed Curlew

Long Billed Curlew 2

Pelican Fishing

Pelican Fishing 2

Pelican Fishing 3

Pelican Flying

Plovers

Shore birds

Settling in.

Riding the waves

Congregating on the shore.

Peaches may have just disturbed them.

Pelicans in flight

A beach congregation

And here is one of my favorite pelican pictures – I just love watching them dive:

Pelican diving - no belly flop here

12/31/09 – 1/5/10

On the road to San Quintin

More of the road scenery

We selected Fidel’s park because it is known for having good water (they have it trucked in) while the ones on either side of him have very salty and not useable water. We quickly discovered Fidel alone is worth staying there. He cares about his park and the people there. He immediately noticed a problem with Jean’s hitch and wanted to see about fixing it. We both, at various times, saw him on the public beach in front of his place collecting the garbage left there. His is the first place in MX we stayed where the hot water in the showers (and it was very hot water) came from the LEFT knob – we have gotten used to checking the right knob first down here. But before we did much of anything, both of us know how much our dogs love both the sand and the beach – so moments after parking:

Jean, Peaches and Bogie loving the beach

Two very happy pups

On of the first things I noticed about the shells on this beach – was how large many were. If you wanted shells for plates or salad dishes – you could collect them here. But even better were some of the designs made by some of the sea creatures in some of the shells – big or small. My favorite is below:

I didn't look to see who was under or in the shell, just admired his work.

I’m not sure what these people were fishing or crabbing for, but they were very successful – throwing things back to their kids and loading up buckets. They were back the next day and at least one other day that I noticed.

Collecting dinner

At some point I did make a point of getting a picture of our rigs:

Jean and Beth parked at Fidels El Pabellon

Sun setting on our first night at Fidels

Our palapa during the end of the sunset

A poor pic of the moon rising.

And I wake up to 2010 and a spectacular sunrise and moon setting.

Moon setting while sun is just rising in opposite sky.

Moon just before it disappears into the haze and clouds on the horizon.

Peaches made a new friend with the new year – one of Fidel’s dogs.

They took turns being the leader playing chase.

And sometimes just had to face-off.

Peaches really enjoyed having a dog who played very similar to her. However, one morning I think they nearly gave me a heart attack. When Peaches and I walked the beach on our first morning walk – all of a sudden she was GONE. I was screaming her name – went and asked some fisherman about to put their boat in the water if they’d seen her, they hadn’t. After about 20 minutes, I headed back to the rig and intended to wake Jean if she wasn’t up for us to continue searching. Ha. There was Peaches. All I can figure is her friend had been “over the dune” and she ran over and they froliced then she didn’t know exactly where I was so she went home. I have to admit it was very hard to let her off leash again, but she loves it so – and when I think it’s safe for her to be off-leash, I’m still doing it, just trying to never take my eyes off her long enough for the “blink of an eye disappearance” to happen again.

Another moon set

And while the beach looked very calm when the tide was out – beware, it’s different coming in:

Waves crashing to shore

Pelican over the waves

A duck, I believe

The waves were magnificent.

Me who can sleep through just about anything, woke up every night a few times to the sound of the crashing waves. And that was with my hearing aids out! I can’t imagine how loud they must have sounded to the well-hearing of those out there (like Jean). At times they lulled me back to sleep, at other times they kept me awake awhile. No complaints – I loved them.

These guys would actually dig into the sand a bit as you can see.

Peaches on a small dune smiling away.

Another sand design

Not sure what that is, but it was alive.

Another sunset

A man who trains horses brought one to the beach to work with – I could have watched for hours – and luckily got a few good shots.

Hard to tell, but the horse was dancing here.

Lying down and playing dead

Just like many dogs, the horse would keep it’s head down only so long, that pop it up, like, hey, I’m alive hahaha – and needed to be corrected. And don’t think this horse was abused. It was happy doing this – it was obvious the horse and trainer had a very good bond.

The next series is of the horse going into a stutuesque pose:

Start of the kneel

Horse working into position

Sitting

Trainer stepping off

Horse as statue

Every morning I watched some of the fishermen put their boats in the water. Finally I watched from start to finish and took a few pictures. There is a beauty to their madness. They drop the boat just barely in the water when a wave comes in, unhook and move the truck out of harms way. Then with the next wave, they push the boat a little futher in. This requires pushing down on the front of the boat to lift the back over the wave and setting it down again before the wave finishes lifting the boat.

Just entering the water

Turning the boat

The boat needs to be turned, as when they are ready, they’ll start the engine and high-tail it into the open waters.

Turned and now waiting on the next wave to lift more

When the boat's far enough in, time to climb in.

over the last wave, start the engines, and away they go

Our last evening on the beach -

I think she's a water dog.

Jean, Peaches and Bogie - just beautiful

Not sure what Peaches is trying to say.

But there is no doubt she likes it.

Bogie and Jean are enjoying also.

But no matter how much we’re all enjoying it – there are more places and more beaches down here to conquer. So the following morning we were off.

I’m going to do another post with the birds, and another to include our side-trips while here.